Top Wines of 2023

Top Wines of 2023

#10. Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Columbia Valley, Washington State

Cash Price $69.99

SPEC’S SCORE: 95 POINTS

I spent a couple of weeks tasting through hundreds of wines in Washington State this year, really diving into the diverse brilliance of the wines coming from the country’s 2nd largest growing wine region. Long Shadows was created by Allen Shoup, who was at the helm of Chateau Ste. Michelle helped form the Washington State wine scene. His unwavering commitment to Washington State wines drove his personal vision of creating a winery that brought together some of the most talented winemakers in the world to produce the best wines that Washington can offer. The Cabernet Sauvignon from this winery is produced by legendary winemaker Randy Dunn who has been making stunning Napa Valley wines for decades. The 2019 vintage is one of pure intensity with a great growing season. This wine was aged in 85% new French oak for 22 months. Robust and purely concentrated flavors of blackberry and freshly picked plums rock through wonderfully structured tannins. The mid-palate is plush and inviting with a soft, creamy core. The finish is vibrant and long lasting with notes of vanilla, graham crackers, dried herbs, and just a kiss of anise.

#9. Vineyard Chardonnay 2019

Russian River Valley, California

Cash Price $49.99

SPEC’S  SCORE: 96 POINTS

Klaus and Kyle Janzen have truly created something special with their Bacio Divino wines. Legendary wine maker Kirk Venge is at the helm of wine making here. They have been able to procure fruit from one of the highest renowned vineyards in the Russian River Valley in Bacigalupi Vineyard, which has been around for well over a century. This wine is named ‘Lucie’ after Klaus’s wife and is deliciously pure from start to finish. Lucie is 100% Chardonnay that was aged in one year Taransaud French oak for 10 months. The nose offers a plethora of white flowers and apple blossoms. The palate is wonderfully gracious with flavors of Granny Smith apples, melon, and creme brulee that sinew into a medium intensity. Beautifully balanced, the wine gives hints of pie crust while encompassing the palate with smidgeons of hazelnuts, buttered toast, and just a kiss of toasted almond.

#8. Ridge Lytton Springs Red Blend 2020

Dry Creek Valley, California

Cash Price $51.29

SPEC’S SCORE: 95 POINTS

I had the pleasure of tasting through Ridge’s entire line up earlier this year and it’s always a joy to taste through a portfolio of wines where everything tasted was of outstanding quality. The 2020 vintage reputation has been marred by the fires throughout California, but Ridge was mostly unaffected. The Geyserville 2020 is a blend of 69% Zinfandel/20% Carignan/8% Petite Sirah/2% Alicante Bouschet/1% Mataro and was aged in air dried 1-5 year old (20% New) American oak for 13 months. Ridge has been producing wine from this vineyard since 1966. Geyserville vineyard was planted in the 1880’s, so the vines produce small yielding, but very high quality fruit. John Olney makes this wine for Ridge and has become extremely adept at showing true terroir from this vineyard. Dark, brooding flavors of smokey roasted meat show immediately on the palate with a beautiful salinity throughout the core of the wine. Ripe flavors of black cherry, currant, and wild berries pop in the palate with delightfully fine, chalky tannins. The finish offers hints of blueberry pie and earthy tobacco.

#7. Brooks ‘Bois Joli’ Riesling 2021

Eola-Amity, Oregon

Cash Price $22.99

SPEC’S SCORE: 96 POINTS

I spent a week up in the town of Amity in the Iconic Willamette Valley with Brooks winery earlier this year. Brooks has had quite a year for accolades. They recently were named #28 World’s Best Vineyards and were also named a TOP 100 Winery in the World by Wine & Spirits magazine. Janie Brooks Hueck is the guiding light of the winery as she continues to feed the flame in Jimi Brooks (Brooks Winery Founder) memory. The wines are crafted by Chris Williams who has been with the winery for over 20 years. He makes wines of purity and finesse that have an Old World feel with New World panache. The winery is also driven to make the world a better place by being part of 1% for the Earth and Certified B Corp. I was truly surprised by this vintage as I’ve always enjoyed the wine, but this particular vintage is absolutely stunning! This wine comes from the Bois Joli vineyard in Eola-Amity. The wine actually has 29 g/l of residual sugar, but the wine really does not taste sweet on the palate as the beautifully high acidity really brings the sugars into balance. Bright, fleshy flavors of apricot, quince, and melon pop into the palate with neon acidity and kisses of sweetness licking the outer palate. The mid palate shows delicious notes of wet rocks, jasmine, and salinity. The finish is racy with hints of ginger, lemon, and honeysuckle. SPEC’S SCORE: 96 POINTS

#6. TOR Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Oakville, California

Cash Price $119.99

SPEC’S  SCORE: 97 POINTS

Tor Kenward founded TOR winery with the intention of only sourcing fruit from the best blocks in the greatest vineyard sites in Napa Valley. TOR focuses on single vineyard wines that are handmade and bottled in very small quantities. Jeff Ames is the wine maker. He learned under mentors such as Thomas Rivers Brown and Ehren Jordan. The grapes for this wine are sourced from Tierra Roja and Skellenger Vineyards. Tierra Roja is adjacent to icons such as Screaming Eagle, Backus, Maya, and Rudd. The wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged for 20 months in new French oak. This wine is an amazingly vibrant and textured wine. It offers an aromatic bouquet of dark fruit and exotic spice. The palate is densely textured with loads of blackberry, currant, and black cherry. The mid palate is sleek and inviting with notes of rhubarb, milk chocolate, and sweet pipe tobacco. The finish is integrated and balanced with hints of dried cigar box, sage, and whiffs of licorice with kisses of toasted vanilla oak. SPEC’S  SCORE: 97 POINTS

#5. Keenan Mernet Red Blend 2018

Spring Mountain District, California

Cash Price $118.74

SPEC’S SCORE: 98 POINTS

Over the last several years of in-depth diving into California wines, I have found that I really enjoy the wines of Spring Mountain District. The wines are taught, balanced, and terroir driven. They shy away from bombastic, over ripe fruit in lieu of age worthy, structure driven styles. Robert Keenan bought 180 acres on Spring Mnt. in 1974. He handed over the reigns to his son, Michael, in 1998. Spring Mountain offers unique soils like basalt, loam, and igneous rocks. The vines can dig deep into the soils to give low vigor and high concentration in the grapes. The Mernet 2018 (pronounced Mare-nay) is comprised of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon from ‘Big K vineyard’ and 50% Merlot from their signature ‘Mailbox Vineyard’. This magnificent wine offers flavors of raspberry compote and neon vibrant fruit. Notes of juicy pomegranate flow into medium intensity with a seamless richness and integrated tannins. The finish offers sweet mocha and exotic spices that are encompassed by a whiff of pipe tobacco and cedar. Absolutely Delicious!

#4. Dumol Wester Reach Pinot Noir 2021

Russian River Valley, California

Cash Price $79.79

SPEC’S SCORE: 96 POINTS

Dumol continues to consistently produce some of the most classic wines in the Russian River Valley with Andy Smith leading the way as the viticulturist and wine maker for over 20 years. Dumol was started in 1996 with a focus on finding highly nuanced, cool site specific vineyards to craft wines of unique characteristics and terroir. As I tasted this wine with their National Sales Manager, I immediately knew that this would be one of my Top Picks of the year. I rarely give away what I truly think of the wine in a tasting, but I really couldn’t stop the smile that kept creeping onto my face as I tasted through these wines. The 2021 vintage may be the best vintage they have produced from the Wester Reach Vineyards (a blend of three sub districts on the furthest western stretches of the Russian River Valley AVA). The wine is 100% Pinot Noir with a medley of clones (Calera, Swan, Pommard, Dijon) and was aged for 15 months in 20% new French oak. Wester Reach offers a delightfully bright nose with amazing floral notes. Classic flavors of dark cherry and framboise flow into sleek, brilliant tannins and zesty acids. The mid palate gives hints of blueberry and cola that lead into whiffs of earthy minerality and button mushroom. The finish is vivacious with notes of clove, exotic spices, and just a tinge of tea leaf and cedar. JUST WOW!

#3. Quintessa Red Blend 2020

Rutherford, California

Cash Price $237.49

SPEC’S SCORE: 98 POINTS

Quintessa continues to impress even in vintages that were challenging. They practice biodynamic and organic farming, which makes it even harder in years that are trying. Quintessa sits on the eastern edge of Rutherford at the foot of the Vaca Mountain range. The vineyards are a mosaic of soils and micro-climates that allow the winery to offer a true kaleidoscope of complexity from the Rutherford AVA. The wine is 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with other Bordeaux varietals and was aged for 22 months in 60% new French oak. The wine shows medium plus intensity with a deliciously floral, dark bouquet. Thick, rich flavors of raspberry compote, black cherry pie and currant flow into a creamy mid palate. A super plush mouth feel envelops the palate with an insanely long finish that offers notes of vanilla, dusted cedar, savory herbs, and toasted graham crackers wrapped in melted mocha.

#2. Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks” Syrah 2019

The Rocks of Milton-Freewater, Washington State

Cash Price $99.99

SPEC’S SCORE: 97 POINTS

I tried the Reynvaan portfolio about a decade ago and was immediately smitten. They produce some of the most interesting, quality driven Syrah in the United States and have been farming organically since their inception. I have become increasingly interested in building our Washington State portfolio as the wines continually show some of the highest quality in America. The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater has baseball sized rocks throughout the AVA and is specifically designated because of the rocky soils. The ‘In the Rocks’ vineyard is a dried up river bed formed by the Walla Walla river more than 15,000 years ago and is reminiscent of the vineyards of Chateauneuf du Pape. This winery has quietly become one of my absolute favorite in the United States. The wines all have a sense of place and a varietal purity that is second to none. In the Rocks is 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier and shows thick, brooding characteristics. The bouquet offers white and red flowers with dark fruit and a medley of spices. The palate offers dark blackberry encompassed by a rich, thick note of bacon fat and salted ham. The mid palate offers notes of black raspberry tea with cracked peppercorn, whiffs of blue fruit, and star anise. The finish is ridiculously long with excellently structured tannins and smidgeons of mocha, crushed stones and olive tampenade. Hints of sweet tobacco spice wrap up this stunner in a nice bow.

#1. Domaine Henri Delagrange et Fils Vieilles Vignes (Old Vine) Pinot Noir 2019

Volnay, France

Cash Price $77.89

SPEC’S SCORE: 98 POINTS

I first visited this winery way up at the top of the hill in Volnay while Tom Dobson and I were at Grands Jours de Bourgogne looking for new properties to bring into our portfolio. We got a tip that there were some amazing wines being made at this Domaine and so we made an appointment to visit them. They tasted us through a plethora of their wines, but I knew after the first sip that we would be buying these wines. I personally purchased a magnum of their Volnay-Santenots to put in my own cellar after the tasting. I recently re-tasted this wine while teaching a class on Bourgogne and was absolutely slapped in the face with how well the wine was drinking right now. Henri Delagrange is a six generation of wine growers that started in 1947 with Didier Delagrange maintaining the farming for the last 23 years. The seventh generation, Didier’s son Alexis, has taken a more integral role in the Domaine as of the 2017 vintage. He produces wines of structure, elegance, and finesse. Alexis has studied the world over in such places as South Africa, Oregon, New Zealand, and Australia to find the best balance of wine making to bring back to their humble Domaine. He truly brings a new perspective to wine making in Volnay with a subtle blend of modernity and tradition with respect for the land. The family farms with a Lutte Raisonnee (reasoned struggle) which is essentially organic farming. All the grapes are hand picked and sorted in the vineyard. This particular wine is 100% destemmed to produce a cleaner, more fruit driven style of wine. The 100% Pinot Noir is then cold macerated for more vibrant color then fermentation begins with indigenous yeast. It is either pumped over or punched down depending on its specific designation then put in barrel to mature for 12 months in 20% new French Oak. Sleek and inviting from the first sup, this wine has a hypnotic bouquet on the nose of violets, red flowers, and spice. The palate is equally enchanting with flavors of blueberry exploding on the palate with a creamy currant core. The mid palate is elegant and graceful with curvy notes of raspberry and blackberry with tinges of tea leaves that are encompassed by silky tannins and integrated acids. This wine is amazingly textured with a dense core of dark fruit that truly covers every taste bud in your palate. The finish is balanced and pure with hints of Portobello mushroom, cola, and whiffs of exotic spice. STUNNING!

James Barlow has been working with Spec’s for over 15 years. During this time, he has become a Certified Wine Educator, Certified Specialist of Spirits, and Certified Sommelier and had the extreme pleasure of becoming one of 200 Bourgogne Wines Ambassadors in the world. His current role for Spec’s is buyer of Fine Wine America and Saké.